One of the most common questions about cashmere is also one of the most misunderstood:
Why does it pill?
Small bobbles appearing on the surface of a new cashmere garment can cause concern. Many assume it signals poor quality or weakness in the fabric.
In reality, pilling is a natural and expected part of a high-quality cashmere garment’s early life.
What Pilling Actually Is
Pilling occurs when loose surface fibres become tangled together through friction. This friction can come from:
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Movement at the underarm
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Contact with a coat or bag strap
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Repeated rubbing against other fabrics
Cashmere, especially Grade A cashmere, is made from fine, delicate fibres. In the first few wears, a small amount of excess fibre from the spinning and knitting process works its way to the surface.
Those fibres gather. Small pills form.
This is not damage. It is settling.
Why High-Quality Cashmere Can Still Pill
There is a misconception that only lower-quality cashmere pills.
In fact, even the finest Grade A fibres can produce some initial pilling. The key difference lies in what happens next.
Shorter, weaker fibres — often found in lower grades — continue to break and reform pills over time.
Longer, stronger fibres — used in Grade A yarn — tend to stabilise after the initial shedding phase. Once the loose fibres have been removed, the surface becomes smoother and more stable.
In other words:
Initial pilling is normal. Persistent heavy pilling is not.
The Role of Construction
Knitting tension and finishing processes also influence pilling.
Balanced tension creates a cohesive structure where fibres support one another. Careful milling encourages fibres to bloom and settle into place. These processes strengthen the overall surface of the garment.
At Ekotree, because we knit, mill and finish in our studio in Doolin, we oversee these stages closely. Proper finishing helps minimise excessive fibre shedding while preserving softness.
How to Manage Pilling Properly
The good news is that pilling is easily managed.
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Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver gently
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Remove pills lightly, without pressing hard
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Wash the garment occasionally using cool water and mild detergent
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Lay flat to dry
Removing pills does not damage the garment when done correctly. In fact, it helps the fabric stabilise more quickly.
Over time, you may notice that pilling decreases significantly. The surface becomes softer and more refined.
Why Pilling Is Not a Flaw
Cashmere is prized for its softness. That softness comes from fine fibres.
Those fine fibres naturally move and settle in the early stages of wear. A completely pill-free cashmere garment would likely be heavily processed or blended in a way that compromises softness.
Some degree of natural fibre movement is a sign of authenticity.
It reflects the organic nature of the material.
Cashmere That Ages Well
Well-made cashmere does not deteriorate. It evolves.
With light care and occasional maintenance, a quality piece can:
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Retain its warmth
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Hold its shape
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Become increasingly soft
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Wear evenly over many seasons
Understanding pilling removes unnecessary concern. Instead of seeing it as a flaw, it can be recognised as part of the material’s natural character.
Cashmere is not synthetic. It is not static. It responds to movement and wear.
And when properly made and properly cared for, it rewards that attention with years of comfort.
